In late May, the apricot trees around Kargil begin flowering after months of snow. Streams reopen through the valleys, roads fill with dust and meltwater and in Balti-speaking villages wedding ...

What does the word Balti mean to you? A bucket, which you use to wash the floor? A spicy chicken curry served in a wok? What about the word Kargil? What images does that conjure in your mind? High ...